I first started drinking coffee when I was eleven or twelve. “Twin Peaks” had started airing and had fetishized the mass consumption of coffee. Pretty soon cappuccinos would be a thing, then Starbucks—at least two very popular NBC sitcoms would prominently feature coffee shop. But I started because of Dale Cooper and “Twin Peaks.” That show still wins for being emotionally devastating while narratively suspect. In those pre-Starbucks days, however, there weren’t coffee shops everywhere. I used to walk to the “L” station and get a cup of coffee in the adjoining breakfast diner. Coffee is like the soup of beverages, if it’s refreshing, there’s something wrong with it. Who knew coffee, which was Folgers in your cup when I was a kid, could become so omnipresent, so pseudo-bourgeois. It’s not even the most effective caffeine delivery. But it is a cup of coffee. Much like soup, there’s something reassuring about it.

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